Traces of the Middle Ages and an Artist's Footsteps: Murten and Bern

The morning after spending a day in Bern, a journey begins toward Jungfrau, the symbol of Switzerland, leaving the city behind. Before embarking on the full-scale Alps trek, a brief stop is made in Murten, a small town not far west of Bern.

With its medieval walls largely intact, this place offers a glimpse into its past as a defensive fortress. Old cannons are displayed as-is in the inner courtyard of the castle, and from atop the walls, the full panorama of the town unfolds at a glance — rolling hills along Lake Murten and a cluster of red rooftops stretching out below. The scenery created by the gentle hills and farmland characteristic of west-central Switzerland serves as a restful pause before heading into the Alps.

Turning back and passing through the city of Bern, the beige-toned stonework contrasting with the clear summer sky showcases the splendor of Swiss architecture. The fact that such buildings remain scattered throughout the old town once again drives home why Bern is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The last stop before leaving Bern is the Schosshalden Cemetery. This is where Paul Klee, one of the defining painters of the 20th century, rests. His tombstone bears an inscription of words he left during his lifetime. Though not a flashy tourist destination, quietly encountering the traces of an artist who came from Bern before setting off on a mountain journey carries a special significance.

From Idyllic Landscapes to the 'Roof of Europe'

Leaving Bern behind and switching to mountain railway lines as the elevation climbs, the landscape transforms completely. The gray buildings of the city disappear, replaced by brown cows grazing leisurely on green pastures. Encountering herds of cattle at close range, seemingly close enough to hear the bells around their necks, is the very epitome of the idyllic Alpine scene. As the train climbs higher, the snow-capped Jungfrau massif gradually reveals its majestic presence through breaks in the clouds.

Along the section leading up to the observation deck, hikers and tourists intermingle on the mountain paths. Beyond the yellow safety markers, valleys unfold where green ridges and gray rocky peaks layer one after another. The panoramic view — capturing even the distant snow-covered summits at a glance — fully demonstrates why this region is called the 'mecca of Alpine hiking.'

As one approaches the summit, the weather shifts dramatically. The once-clear sky suddenly turns overcast with fluttering snowflakes, and in front of the sign reading 'Jungfraujoch — Top of Europe,' travelers bundled in thick jackets take commemorative photos in the snow. Encountering snow in the height of summer serves as a vivid reminder that this is a high-altitude zone exceeding 3,000 meters above sea level.

Where the clouds part, the imposing terrain carved by glaciers is revealed. The boundary where the eternal snow cascading down rock walls meets the green meadows below presents a striking contrast forged by the seasons. An artificial lake encountered on the descent glows with the distinctive turquoise hue of glacial meltwater, standing out vividly between the gray rocky mountains and green hills.

From the tranquil walled town of Murten and the cemetery of Paul Klee, through the city of Bern, and all the way to the eternal snows of Jungfrau, it was a journey of encountering completely different faces of Switzerland. The next installment will continue with the 'section' following the descent from Jungfrau.